Blowback

In all fairness, what had happened at Sotheby’s and Harvey Nichols had involved guns and bullets, not ropes and mountains, but Harvath wasn’t taking any chances. The entire time they had been climbing, Harvath had been going through a mental checklist of the ways in which he could safely facilitate Alcott’s descent into the chasm. The first and most obvious option was for him to lower her down himself, but now without either a line-of-sight visual or proper communications gear, that option was fraught with too many potential problems and was scratched from the list. The next option was for both of them to rappel on the same line, but it would undoubtedly require Harvath to go first, and if Jillian froze for some reason above him, he’d be lucky as hell to get both of them back up to the pass. The option that made the most sense was for them to rappel side-by-side at the same time.

Harvath examined the rock above the pass and looked for anchor points for his hardware. While he decided on the right items to use, he also kept one eye open for anchor points that Bernard might have previously established. The fact that he didn’t spot any told him that either they were totally in the wrong location and Bernard had never climbed here, or someone had done a very careful cleanup job. Though Harvath hated to think about it, he had a bad feeling that the latter was probably true.

After establishing anchor points with a combination of pitons and spring-loaded camming devices, Harvath tied a double rope and threw the excess over the side of the pass and into the chasm. He gave Jillian’s harness a final check and then his own. Running one of the ropes through her harness, he drew it tight and had her lean back into it while she stood there on the pass, just getting used to it. “Remember, we’re going to do this nice and easy. It isn’t like you see in the movies. There’s not going to be any of that pushing way out from the wall kind of stuff. You just sit back in your harness and we’ll lower ourselves slowly, okay?”

Jillian nodded her head, and as an added safety measure, Harvath connected her harness to his own with a long piece of nylon known as a leash.

With their backs toward the drop-off behind them, Harvath gave everything one last check, swung his pack over his shoulders, and then talked Jillian through what was always the most terrifying part of a descent-stepping out and over the edge.

Her feet may have been hesitant, but to her credit, Jillian did everything she was told to do and never stopped. Like many novice climbers, she was afraid to trust the full weight of her body to her harness and ended up gripping the rope a lot tighter than she needed to. Harvath encouraged her to relax, but it wasn’t until her hands and the muscles in her arms started to ache that she allowed herself to sit all the way back in the harness.

With the howling wind buffeting their bodies and threatening to slam them into the sheer cliff face in front of them, it wasn’t the optimal condition for a first-time descent, but Jillian was doing surprisingly well. Harvath could tell she was scared, but she was keeping her fear at bay by focusing on everything he had told her to do. She was an exceptional student.

Harvath, on the other hand, had several concerns of his own regarding their descent, not the least of which was that due to the weather conditions, a mountain fog had moved in and was making it impossible to see anything beneath them. There was no telling if they would reach any sort of foothold before they ran out of rope, which was all the more reason to take it easy. The last thing they needed was for one of them to end up breaking a leg, or worse.

Twenty-five meters later, the fog diminished slightly and they could make out a wide, sloping shelf of ice ten meters below. Harvath unleashed himself from Jillian and gently increased his speed. By the time she made it the rest of the way down, Harvath’s crampons were already firmly planted on the shelf.

“Did we make some sort of mistake?” said Jillian as she stood up and looked around, disappointed. “There’s nothing here.”

“Maybe, maybe not,” said Harvath as he removed one of the satellite images from inside his parka and studied it. “It’s been over a year. When it comes to snow and ice, a lot can happen in that time.”

Jillian watched as Harvath withdrew two more coils of rope from his pack and established another set of anchor points by hammering pitons into the rock face behind them. He secured the ropes they had used to climb down from the pass so they wouldn’t blow away and then got back to work, readying for the next stage of their descent.