34. Arnold Scaasi, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) (New York: Scribner, 2004), 111–112.
35. Caroline Evans, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003), 71.
36. Urmee Khan, “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress,” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/LizHurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html
.37. Georgina O’Hara, The Encyclopedia of Fashion (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1986), 32.
5. Capri Pants and Shorts:
The Plague on Our Nation
1. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 45.
2. Ibid., 46.
3. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” In Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.
5. Ibid., 121.
6. Skirts: Mini, Midi, Maxi, and More
1. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest (London: V&A Publishing, 2009), 36.
2. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.
3. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until ToDay (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 49–50, 55.
4. Myra Walker, “Miniskirt,” in A – Z of Fashion.
5. Ibid.
6. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 908–909.
7. Ralph Graves, ed., “The Midi Muscles In,” Life, August 21, 1970.
8. Valerie Steele, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, vol. 2 (Farmington Hills, MI: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005), 9.
9. Andrew Bolton, Bravehearts: Men in Skirts (London: V&A Publications, 2003), 26–27.
7. Belts: Friend to Soldiers and Vixens
.2. James Laver, Costume (New York: Hawthorn Books, 1964), 2.
3. Ibid.
4. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 11.
5. Berg Fashion Library, image of embroidered canvas suspenders, 1840.
8. Dress Shirts: Prudery and Puffery
1. Ester Juhasz, “Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia.
2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.
3. Ibid., 76 (image).
4. Ibid., 79.
5. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 15.
6. Ibid., 16–17.
9. Ties and Scarves: Color Me Beautiful, Hermès, and Other Cults
1. Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès, How to Wear Your Hermès Scarf (Paris: Editions Hermès, 1986), 1.
2. Nadine Coleno, The Hermès Scarf: History and Mystique (London: Thames & Hudson, 2009), 29.
3. Andrew Baseman, ed., The Scarf (New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1989), 50.
4. Coleno, The Hermès Scarf, 18.
5. Baseman, The Scarf, 50.
6. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 198.
7. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 22.
8. Simon Doonan, “Bring Back Nancy Red!” The New York Observer, January 8, 2001, www.observer.com/2001/01/bring-back-nancy-red/
.9. Nina Lalli, “Checkered Past: Arafat’s Trademark Scarf Is Now Military Chic,” Village Voice, February 15, 2005, www.villagevoice.com/2005–02–15/nyc-life/checkered-past/
.10. Anna König, “Neckties and Neckwear,” in A – Z of Fashion.
11. Ibid.
12. Avril Hart, Ties (New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1998), 68.
13. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 9.
10. Vests: Take That, France!
1. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 54.
2. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 218.
3. Memoirs and Interesting Adventures of an Embroidered Waistcoat (London: printed for and sold by J. Brooke, at the Golden Head, under St. Dunstan’s Church, Fleet-Street, 1751), 12.
4. Ibid., 13.
5. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 907–908.
11. Suits: All Hail Beau Brummell!